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Zega Mame Gear - Troubleshooting

Every pre-soldered Zega Mame Gear is fully tested prior top shipping including:

  • All inputs
  • Audio (headphone and speaker)
  • Video
  • HDMI Out (if available)
  • Power supply


Buttons are registering intermittently?
If you find you are having to press hard to register an input I would recommend ensuring the board is not offset and cleaning all the buttons contacts and membranes with isopropyl alcohol. Sometimes a little more than a rub with alcohol may be needed. I prefer the lightly rub the area with scotch brite prior to cleaning.

I have prepared a short video showing how much difference a proper clean can make.
No display when using HDMI out

Your TV / Monitor may not be able to display the low default resolution if using an older pre-configured image. You can edit the boot/config.txt and increase the default resolution or try using the newest base image available through the Downloads area of the website.

My device will not power on with batteries

Please ensure the battery polarity is correct. Not all battery connectors are the same. Double check the ensure the red battery wire is going to the + pin on the Power Board.

No audio
  • Ensure the volume wheel is turned all the way up
  • Ensure the audio connectors are both securely fitting into both the Audio Board and Mainboard
No Video - White Display
  1. Ensure you are using the correct image for your model Raspberry Pi. If you are not sure, please ask.
  2. Are you giving the device sufficient time to boot? The LCD will remain white until it is initialised during boot. On a Pi Zero this can be up to 60 seconds on first boot. On a Pi Zero 2 this can be up to 20 seconds.
  3. Does the green activity LED show signs of life? A flickering green LED indicates that the device is booting correctly. If it does not flicker at all this means it is not booting, Re-flash your SD Card and try again. It may also be worth trying a different SD Card.  If the green activity LED does flicker move to step 4.
  4. Check the image using HDMI either through the Pi itself or using on-board HDMI out if available and ensure the boot process completes all the way through to the Retropie menu screen. If the device fully boots to the Retropie menu screen, move on to step 5.
  5. If you soldered the header to the Raspberry Pi yourself, it is now worth checking the soldering to ensure all pins are correctly and cleanly soldered. Each solder pad should be fully covered (No copper visible) and ensure there are no shorts between pins. If you are confident all pins are soldered sufficiently and the LCD remains white, move on to step 6.
  6. Try an alternative Raspberry Pi to ensure all necassary GPIO pins are functioning correctly,
  7. Check that all video pins (a GPIO pinout is available) on the 40 pins header are securely soldered. Although all kits are tested prior to shipping, sometimes the solder can come loose in transit.
  8. The next step would be to check and re-flow the LCD ribbon, however this can be tricky if you are not confident in your soldering ability. The LCD would need seperating from the adhesive pads and lifted to gain access, and to re-flow, the ribbon cable.